An evening on the canal

There is one thing everyone does in Venice, and it gets dismissed for being touristy — unfairly. Going down the canal is the point of the city. On foot Venice is narrow, crowded and something of a maze. From the water you understand in a moment why it was rich for centuries: every façade, every door, every staircase was built to face the canal.

When

Late afternoon. As the sun drops the marble turns orange and the crowds that fill every alley during the day start to thin out. Midday is both hot and busy.

Two ways

Vaporetto line 1. Public transport — a water bus. It runs the length of the Grand Canal and passes under both Rialto and Accademia. Cheap, crowded, not remotely romantic, but the view is the same view. If it is your first time, this is the fastest way to understand the city.

A small note

The top of the Rialto Bridge is the most crowded photo spot in Venice. Getting off one stop earlier and looking at the bridge from the water is both easier and better.